Matlock Bath: Lead mining is the Peak District's oldest industry

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Keen walker Denis Eardley calls in at Matlock Bath where he looks at the history of the town and the importance of lead mining to the area.

NESTLING beneath limestone cliffs, with the River Derwent flowing below in a beautiful wooded valley, is the popular tourist centre of Matlock Bath.

The town has been a tourist attraction since visitors came to bathe in the thermal waters.

The name Matlock Bath, in fact, dates from the establishment of the first bath in the late l690s. It was little more than a stone structure filled by a thermal spring, with a constant temperature of 68 degrees fahrenheit.

As the number of visitors who came to benefit from the medicinal qualities of the warm spring water increased, some development to improve the facilities took place.

At first progress was slow, the amenities were poor and access to the town from the south very difficult.

However, two factors hastened the increase in business. Road improvements made Matlock Bath more accessible after 1780 and the French Revolution severely restricted foreign travel to Europe for the rich.

Matlock Bath’s beautiful scenery was compared to that of Switzerland and the town became known as “Little Switzerland”. The thermal qualities of the water also added to the attraction of the area.

As facilities started to improve and, with visits by Queen Victoria in 1832 and 1844, its reputation grew considerably.

Everything changed again with the arrival of the Midland Railway, bringing with it day-trippers by the thousand.

This quickly drove away the so-called “persons of quality” to neighbouring Matlock Bank. Here, John Smedley had opened a hydropathic establishment, in much more genteel surroundings, well away from the hordes.

The site previously occupied by the hydro is now an aquarium. The pool in the former Victorian consulting rooms is now the home of a selection of British and tropical freshwater fish rather than the bathers of yesteryear, hoping to relieve their rheumatism.

Housed in the Grand Pavilion is the Peak District Mining Museum, the only one of its kind in the world.

It tells the story of lead mining from Roman to recent times in an interesting and innovative manner, with climbing shafts and tunnels providing a real insight into what working down a lead mine was really like. Close by is the Temple Mine which provides an opportunity to go underground on a guided tour to learn more about the history of mining.

The reconstructions enable you to see the mine as it was at the beginning of the century.

Part of the railway station has been converted into the Whistlestop Countryside Centre, where the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust has created an exhibition area and shop.

In Victorian days, the Matlock Bath authorities had the station built to a Swiss design.

When Queen Victoria visited Matlock Bath in 1844, she ascended the Heights of Abraham on a donkey.

Nowadays, visitors usually use the cable cars that first started to operate in 1984, or take the more strenuous option and walk.

The Church of the Holy Trinity is a fine building from the early Victorian period and, in the car park next to it, once stood the Royal Hotel, which had replaced the Old Bath Hotel, in 1878. Unfortunately, fire destroyed it in 1929.

A dramatic setting provides a natural backdrop for Gulliver’s Kingdom, a fantasyland for children.

From a model village, it has grown into a theme park, providing fun and entertainment for the whole family.

The Fishpond Hotel stands on the site of stables which belonged to the Old Bath Hotel. The sloping walkway originally led to the hotel but now provides a route to the car park.

Opposite, in the fishpond at the southern end, immersed in the water, is an old and very faded milestone.

One of the oldest buildings on the main road is probably Hodgkinson’s Hotel and Restaurant, which dates from 1780 and, in former days, was a coach staging point.

On the eastern bank of the river, over Jubilee Bridge, are the “Lovers’ Walks” which provide a relaxing stroll in contrast to the bustling main street.

Matlock Bath is a popular haunt for serious rock-climbers who test their ability against the sheer rock face of High Tor. For those who just want to walk, “The Grand Walk” provides fine views all the way to the top.

The highlights of the year are the illuminations and Venetian Nights, which start in early September and continue until the end of October. The riverbanks, decorated by illuminated displays and the floodlit cliffs, offer a truly memorable show.

The climax of the Venetian Nights, on Saturdays and Sundays, are when decorated boats, with coloured lights twinkling, glide down the river. A magical experience enjoyed by people of all ages.