The Exeter Arms - A Pub with Pedigree

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This is one of a projected series presenting potted histories of Derbyshire 'public houses', some long-gone, others still thriving. The pieces make no claim to be definitive, so You & Yesterday users who may have further knowledge, opinions, or pictures, are invited to add to them. Here Peter Seddon gives his personal take on The Exeter Arms.


Exeter House as photographed by Richard Keene in 1853, the year before it was demolished. The Exeter Arms public house had earlier been built on part of its garden land
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Exeter House as photographed by Richard Keene in 1853, the year before it was demolished. The Exeter Arms public house had earlier been built on part of its garden land

THE EXETER ARMS is one of Derby's best-known pubs. Guidebooks and advertisements have habitually described it as 'a traditional hostelry which is particularly popular with real ale drinkers seeking good beer and old-fashioned hospitality in characterful surroundings'. A little trite, perhaps, but in this case absolutely true.

Situated at 13 Exeter Place, on the corner of Exeter Street, it was erected as a purpose-built ale house circa 1816, at the same time as the rest of the immediate area was developed residentially. The modest Regency building was pitched on land which once formed the gardens to Exeter House, after which the pub was indirectly named.

Exeter House itself is worthy of a brief diversion. Erected as quite a modest property in the early seventeenth century, it was subsequently lavishly extended. It was given the name Exeter House in the early eighteenth century, when the property was acquired by Brownlow Cecil, the 8th Earl of Exeter (1701-54). It came to him through his judicious marriage on 18 July 1724 to Miss Hannah Sophia Chambers, a local heiress. So it is after the Earl of Exeter that the pub is truly named.

He was once host in absentia to Bonnie Prince Charlie, when the 'Young Pretender' stayed at Exeter House from 4-6 December 1745, but despite its historical interest and architectural importance this fine residence was demolished in 1854. Regrettable of course, at least in hindsight, but it does prove that contentious 'redevelopment' is nothing new.

The sign in place at The Exeter Arms in 2007 seeks to perpetuate the link to the Earl of Exeter. On it, a splendidly painted knight carries a shield emblazoned with heraldic arms, but alas the artist crossed his lines in interpreting the brief. In fact the arms are those of the city of Exeter, which has no specific link to the erstwhile Earl of that name. Derby's well-known local historian Maxwell Craven labelled this 'an unforgivable solecism'. Others might consider it a mere cock-up.

Not that such a trifle would unduly worry the pub's customers at large, for a relaxed session in 'The Ex' - as it is familiarly known - generally has a pleasantly soporific effect, to the degree that even the most pedantic and cantankerous of souls are liable to make allowances.

The Exeter Arms pictured in 1988. The ownership by Marston's brewery is evident, although the incongruous armorial inn sign has yet to be erected
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The Exeter Arms pictured in 1988. The ownership by Marston's brewery is evident, although the incongruous armorial inn sign has yet to be erected

The pub has always been renowned for its good beer. For many years it brewed its own range on the premises, the activity ceasing only in 1970 with the retirement of the landlady Winifred Jackson. For some time thereafter The Exeter was known as the last Derby pub to produce its own brew, but in more recent times it has lost that distinction to real ale havens such as The Brunswick, which with others has revived the tradition with burgeoning success.

Under Winifred Jackson the pub had been a free house, but after her retirement it was acquired by Bass. They in turn sold it to Marston's in 1980, and for a glorious period the pub was considered by aficionados to serve 'the best Pedigree in Derby', indeed perhaps in the whole of Derbyshire. Despite significant changes to Marston's corporate identity, that flagship beer remains a popular choice today, and knowing requests for a 'Pint o' Peddie' are still aired with an eager anticipation - almost desperation in some cases - which speaks for itself.

Apart from its beer, the great charm of The Exeter lies in its relatively unspoilt interior. Although essentially open-plan, a series of small doorless 'rooms' on slightly different levels affords the pub a certain intimacy and cosiness. Various interesting pictures and signs adorn the walls, and nostalgic items of 'breweriana' arrest the roving eye.

Whilst not sufficiently 'entire' to rate as an architectural gem, part of the pub retains its old wooden settles and screens, and the locally-forged black-leaded range in the quaint snug is a particularly attractive feature.

An evocative impression of the Exeter Arms snug by Reg Newcombe - as at 2007 the scene remains substantially unchanged
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An evocative impression of the Exeter Arms snug by Reg Newcombe - as at 2007 the scene remains substantially unchanged

The atmospheric snug was until quite recently not visible from the bar area, which made it a favourite retreat for those seeking peace and quiet or simply morose solitude. This timeless corner regularly yielded the opportunity to encounter some of Derby's more eccentric characters. On one occasion I was button-holed by a gentleman - somewhat tramp-like and with egg yolk dribbling down his chin - who claimed to be descended from Queen Victoria.

The snug also served as a very useful bolt-hole for couples engaging in clandestine liaisons. Tradition has it that romantically-enmeshed employees from the nearby Council House and Police Station used it particularly well at lunchtimes. When plans were announced to 'knock through' one of its walls - thus exposing it to the gaze of patrons in the main bar - a number of perturbed regulars created quite an outcry, but the work was ultimately completed without undue detriment to the pub's appeal.

Accessed via the snug 'corridor' is the small but busy kitchen - open unabashed to public view - from which homely aromas and wafts of steam intermittently emerge. Here 'the ladies' produce the lunchtime fare which has garnered rather a legendary reputation - simple home-cooked food at extremely sensible prices. For that very reason, any 'celebrity chef' would no doubt wish it closed at a stroke.

Sausage, egg and chips - this classic British dish, with more than 'a few' chips, is an Exeter Arms staple
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Sausage, egg and chips - this classic British dish, with more than 'a few' chips, is an Exeter Arms staple

The substantial helpings have precipitated some of the regulars to broker their own deals. As a consequence, casual visitors to the pub might well be puzzled to hear knowing requests such as 'chicken sandwich and a few' delivered in hushed tones. This apparently nonsensical order is in turn answered by the kitchen staff with a conspiratorial nod and a suitable price adjustment - the 'few' in question being established insider argot for 'a few chips'!

Known to have availed themselves of the 'few' privilege with particular enthusiasm are a group of 'senior' supporters of Derbyshire County Cricket Club. This sage and rather long-suffering band have found the Exeter Arms to be a convivial place of repair from the nearby County Ground during the lunch interval or rainbreaks. It is by no means unusual for such refreshment sessions to completely eclipse the cricket, failure to return to the ground before close of play being not uncommon, despite best intentions.

The Exeter Arms is an authentic pub serving real beer to those who value a traditional drinking environment. For a pre-clubbing lager session or raucous hen-night it is possible it might fall slightly short of expectations - for a quiet pint in pleasant warm surroundings steeped in history, this old Derby hostelry remains hard to beat.

Do you have a view on The Exeter Arms, or perhaps some anecdotes about it. Do you remember the landlady Winifred Jackson? And who were the pub's other 'mine hosts' over the years? To extend this article just click on 'edit' and add your contribution below this final paragraph.



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