Ashford-in-the-Water: Trail follows route of old railway line

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In the third part of his series taking readers on a fascinating ramble through some of Derbyshire’s most spectacular countryside and beautiful towns and villages, Denis Eardley, calls in at Ashford-in-the-Water. Here the keen walker from Littleover looks at the history of the village, once owned by the Devonshire family. On the following two pages, he maps out a heritage trail around the village and a slightly more ambitious countryside walk.

THE lovely village of Ashford-in-the-Water nestles on the banks of the River Wye as it slowly meanders its way south towards Bakewell.

It lies on the route of the ancient Portway, one of the Peak District’s oldest trackways which has been used for many centuries.

The beautiful, low arched medieval Sheepwash Bridge, overhung by willow trees, was built on the site of a ford across the river.

In the 17th century it was crossed each week by hundreds of pack horses, usually carrying malt from Derby.

It has been widened at least twice and takes its name from the attached sheep pen. Sheep were driven into it before being thrown unceremoniously into the river to be washed prior to shearing.

The bridge is no longer open to traffic and is a favourite spot where visitors can either feed the ducks, or gaze down into the clear waters to see if they can spot a rainbow trout.

Lead mining was carried out in the area, but the chief industry used to be marble polishing.

When polished, impure forms of limestone which had been mined locally, turned jet black; this was then cut and used for ornamental purposes.

Henry Watson founded what were known as the Ashford black marble works in 1748, at a site now owned by a water company, the business having finally closed in 1905.

The marble was very popular in Victorian times and was exported all over the world. A table in the village church is inlaid with pieces of Ashford Marble.

In the 19th century, a stocking industry was set up in the village and, by 1829, there were 80 frames being worked.

The part of the village where the machines were located was called “Rattle” because of the noise created!

One of the stocking frame cottages still remains on Hill Cross.

Hanging in the aisle of Holy Trinity Church are four “virgin crants”, which were once carried at the funerals of unmarried girls.

These are garlands made from white paper, cut to form rosettes, fixed to wooden frames, which were later hung above the pew where grieving relatives sat. On Trinity Sunday, Ashford celebrates the founding of the church. Following the service, there is a procession to bless the six wells that are dressed annually.

Out of all the charming houses in the village, the one with the finest location must be The Rookery.

Lovely, spacious lawns front this imposing residence, part of which dates back to the 16th century, and, just to make the picture complete, the River Wye flows through the grounds in a great majestic loop.

In 1941, it became the first home of the last Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. A Royal Manor at the time of the Domesday Book, Ashford eventually passed, by succession, to the Devonshire family, before being sold off in the 1950s to pay death duties.

On the old bridge near Ashford’s attractive little cricket ground is an inscription carved simply in the stone “M Hyde 1664”.

This relates to a tragic incident when a man was blown off his horse and drowned in the river.

Originally, the road on which the bridge stands was built to give access to the corn mill from the village. There has been a corn mill at Ashford since at least 1086, when its existence was recorded in Domesday Book.

The present day building, parts of which date back some 400 years, is passed by leats from the Wye on either side where the two water wheels used to be housed.

Ashford, unlike most Peak villages, is set in a beautiful valley setting, rather than in a hollow on a plateau, or on the side of a valley like Youlgreave.

Its mainly 18th century cottages are built of smoothly textured limestone, light brown in colour, giving a warm and cosy feel to the village.

There have been times in the past when the village has lived up to its name and, as recently as October 1998, most of the village was flooded.

Debris swept down the river as a result of heavy rain, became blocked at the Sheepwash Bridge and caused the Wye to overflow.

The old parish pump and top pump are at opposite ends of Fennel Street, the pumps having been removed and a shelter erected over both wells in 1881.

A medieval tithe barn stands close to Sheepwash Bridge, as does the Riverside Hotel and Restaurant, the Cottage Tearooms and a small craft shop.

At the far end of Church Street are the Parish Rooms where the Post Office is now housed and close by is the Ashford Arms with the Village Stores and the Bull’s Head across the road.

If you want to discover more about Derbyshire and the Peak log on to Denis’ website www.derbyshire-peakdistrict.co.uk

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