Wirksworth: Town reborn after years of blight

Keen walker Denis Eardley looks at the history of Wirksworth, and maps out a heritage trail and countryside walk.

The small town of Wirksworth does not perhaps make much impact on the busy traveller driving through. But those visitors who do take the time to stop and explore the narrow streets and maze of interesting alleyways, to admire the old buildings and lovely views, to visit the ancient church and the cathedral-like close, will soon find themselves falling in love with this fascinating old town.

Standing as it does virtually at the heart of Derbyshire, about two miles to the south of the Peak District National Park boundary, Wirksworth was the centre of the English lead mining industry when it was at its height.

Lead was the basis of Wirksworth’s past prosperity and lead mining in the area goes back to at least Roman times.

The Barmote Court was set up in 1288 to enforce lead mining laws which it was said, even at that time, were of great antiquity.

It is almost certainly the oldest industrial court in Britain, and possibly in the world, and it still sits twice a year at Moot Hall in Chapel Lane.

Between 1600 and 1780, lead mining reached a peak, before finally declining during the latter part of the 19th century.

When miners were forced deeper and deeper underground for the ore, flooding problems became very severe and made extraction uneconomical.

The discovery of rich deposits of easily accessible lead ore at Broken Hill in Australia forced prices down even further, resulting in the closure of many mines.

As lead mining declined, the limestone quarries provided work for people who lived in the area.

The arrival of the railway in Wirksworth, which linked the town with Derby and the rapidly expanding railway network beyond, opened the way for the easy distribution of limestone which was in great demand.

The situation was improved still further 12 years later when a railway tunnel was built below the town centre linking Dale Quarry, known locally as the “Big Hole”, with the station.

The railway contributed to the local economy for more than 100 years, transporting stone and agricultural products. It started carrying passengers on October 1, 1867, and was used for passengers and freight until 1989, when it closed.

The railway was neglected and the line became overgrown. The station yard also became very untidy, which detracted from the carefully restored town centre only a short distance away.

The appearance of the station buildings, platforms and surrounds at Wirksworth have seen an amazing transformation since then.

The station yard has been tidied and car parking areas have been allocated, ready for what will undoubtedly become a major tourist attraction in Derbyshire, as new sections of the line are re-opened.

Since its successful share launch, Wyvern Rail has made considerable progress in establishing the Ecclesbourne Railway. It now plays an important role in the East Midlands railway community by providing industry-testing and training facilities.

Regular events are held and every effort is made to ensure visitors feel welcome and to encourage them to explore the whole of the site.

A great upheaval for the townspeople came in 1925-26 with the re-opening of Dale Quarry.

Mechanisation was introduced and a stone crusher installed in a hole between 200 and 300 feet deep.

Inevitably, the whole of this densely populated area declined as the town was badly affected by dust, dirt and noise.

Many of the people who could afford to do so reluctantly left, along with business and commerce.

Buildings fell into disrepair, frequently being left empty to fall into decay, and what had once been one of Derbyshire’s most important towns was left blighted, with the residents who remained despairing that improvements would ever take place. Help was at hand when Derbyshire Historic Buildings Trust discovered an anonymous charity which, after a lengthy process of selection and negotiation, chose Wirksworth for financial support.

In November 1978, a public meeting was called at Wirksworth Town Hall to discuss proposals for the regeneration of the town.

The meeting was overwhelmingly in favour of the proposals and the Wirksworth Project was launched.

At first, progress was slow but, after overcoming what seemed almost insurmountable problems, the realisation of the dramatic progress that had been made became fully apparent when national and international recognition was achieved.

In June 1983, Wirksworth was presented with the prestigious Europa Nostra Award for architectural conservation.

This was the only award made to a United Kingdom project at that time. It was given for its “exemplary regeneration of a small county town, through a broad programme of self-help and innovative features”.

Praise came from many other quarters and the Prince of Wales even referred to the project as “brilliantly imaginative”.

For those wanting to know more about Wirksworth, a visit to the highly acclaimed Heritage Centre is essential.

Situated just off the Market Place, in Crown Yard, the centre is housed in what once was a silk and velvet mill.

It is here that the “Wirksworth Story” is explained, taking you on a fascinating journey through time from prehistoric days, when the bones of a woolly rhino were found, through the lead mining era to the present day.

As an added bonus, you can also enjoy the excellent views over the town from the windows.

The Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin stands on a site at the junction of at least five ancient trackways.

It was one of the first centres of Christian teaching and may well have been built on the site of a prehistoric stone circle. The church dates back to about 653. A path completely encircles the churchyard, which gives it a cathedral-like appearance. It contains the “Wirksworth Stone” which has been described as “one of our greatest archaeological treasures”.

Look out for the much-admired carved figure of a lead miner with his pick and kibble on the west wall. On the Sunday following September 8, the ancient custom of clypping is still observed, when the congregation joins hands in thanksgiving to completely encircle the church.

Adam Bede cottage stands at the southern end of Wirksworth, where Samuel Evans and his wife, Elizabeth, once lived. They were portrayed as Adam Bede and Dinah Morris in George Eliot’s famous novel Adam Bede.

Eliot loosely based her novel Mill on the Floss on Haarlem Mill which stands on the other side of the road from the cottage.

The limestone cottages of The Dale and Green Hill cling to the hillside, as if Wirksworth was some little Cornish fishing village with nothing but the sea missing. In places, it is possible to walk from the garden of one house onto the roof of another below.

This is the area where the lead miners used to live, the jumble of small cottages having been built mostly of stone extracted from nearby quarries.

Nowhere is the lack of planning more apparent than in the area between the remains of Dale Quarry and Middle Peak Quarry, known locally as Puzzle Gardens.

The cottages are linked by a maze of “ginnels” or “jitties”, there is no room for vehicular access and it is a nightmare for any new postman.

Halfway up Green Hill is Babington House, at one time used as a hospital. It is an excellent example of the old builders’ rule, “always use local products if they are available”, the builder having quarried the stone from the back garden.

At the foot of Green Hill stands Hopkinson’s House, restored from dereliction by the Wirksworth Project.

The town’s ancient Market Place occupies the centre of the town and is surrounded by a remarkably large number of handsome buildings, which combine to make an impressive scene.

Little has changed over the last 150 years, apart from the construction of Harrison Drive, in 1940, to ease the flow of quarry traffic through the town.

The facades of many of the shops and houses date from between 1760 and 1840, but the structures are often much older. A market is now held every Tuesday on the steeply sloping area at the foot of West End.

It is very much reduced in size from 1306, when Edward I granted the town a market and four fairs per year. It is worth walking to the top of the Market Place to admire the view of the town and the hills beyond.

This is also Peak Practice country, the town having been used in scenes from the popular television drama.

At the bottom of the Market Place, set on an island site, is the Hope and Anchor, where the elaborately carved wooden fireplace in the lounge bar probably dates back to about 1660.

The chemist’s shop, established in 1756, has bow windows that are believed to belong to one of the oldest practising pharmacies in the country.

The Red Lion pub is said to be haunted by the ghost of a coachman whose horses bolted while he was trying to manoeuvre his coach through the archway, losing his head in the process.

The old lock-up, now a guest house, served as a police station for 100 years. Author D H Lawrence and his German-born wife, Frieda, who was listed as an alien, had to report there once a week during the First World War when they lived at Middleton-by-Wirksworth.

In the 19th century, North End Mills, along with four other mills in the town, manufactured 800 miles of “red tape” each week.

Visitors to the mills can see hosiery being made at what has become one of the largest factory shops of its type in the United Kingdom.

Every year, at Spring Bank holiday, Wirksworth holds its annual well dressing ceremonies and carnival.

The custom was first adopted in the town to celebrate the arrival of piped water, in 1827, when the taps were dressed. Nowadays, the dressings are placed in convenient locations around the town and visitors can obtain a map of the sites to ensure they do not miss any.

There is always a good carnival spirit about the town at this time of year.

A well queen is crowned and then, along with her attendants, she forms part of a procession to bless the wells, accompanied by a brass band. When Janet Reger had a factory in the town, she donated the gown for the queen to wear.

In September, the town celebrates the talents of local, national and international artists, along with performers of all descriptions, when it hosts its prestigious annual festival.

If you want to discover more about Derbyshire and the Peak, log on to Denis’ website at www.derbyshire-peakdistrict.co.uk

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